Cost to resurface ashpalt

$10,000 PER HOME sounds about right for a complete repaving.

Maybe $1,500 per home for an 'overlay' assuming the base is structurally sound.

A typical private driveway is about $4,000 to repave PROPERLY so it lasts 30-40 years.

I've HEARD of estimates for asphalt work, as a complete repaving from $4-$7 PER SQUARE FOOT. If you have 18,000 sqft of asphalt that would need to be completely PROPERLY repaved...$72,000 to $126,000 would be a base estimate NOT taking into account your roads/grading/geographic location/local pricing structures/etc.

A reserve study is highly recommended. My association is the process of getting one done.

Yes, you are correct, they don't want to pay for a reserve fund and heaven forbid we get a reserve study!!! I at least have documented that everyone is against this, but wanted to get some feedback from those of you who have been thru this.

I agree, this should have been setup by the developer in the original docs, it would eliminate alot of grief for the BOD.

Thanks to all of you who replied!

KarenT,

You are doing exactly what you should be doing. Estimates from other areas would be meaningless. Obatin several estimates (3?) and then presnet it to the owners to see if they would prefer paying into a reserve in increments rather than being hit with a special assessment. Good for you in thinking ahead.

Karen,

As you see you are getting estimates from South Carolina, Colorado, etc. This is meaningless since you are in Washington. With only 12 owners I doubt a reserve study is necessary but better to convince owners to pay into a reserve by presenting them with several estimates (which undoubtedly will go up as everything increases). Hopefully you have owners who expect to live there for some time and not people who move in and out in a year or two. It all depends on what type of owners you have. Naturally owners who move frequently could care less about a reserve fund while owners who intend to stay care more. After you show them the estimates the question is simple..do you want to pay gradually in your assessments or be broadsided with a special assesment down the road?

Karen no one wants to pay taxes either but we do. In most CC&R's I've seen the people the H/O's elect to the BOD set the budget and set assessments. Now sometimes the H/O's must approve the budget or the BOD is limited to what it can raise assessments. Which applies to your HOA?

I'll argue this point till the cows come home.

Many older associations are now short in funds to pay for major repairs due to long time board members, aka long time owners, that based fee increases on a set percentage or what they thought the owners could afford. They took over the association from the developer and kept his low fees to begin with instead of coming up with what their actual costs were.

AND it's these same people now screaming that their fees are so high. Yeah, the fees wouldn't be so high now if they had just come up with proper budgets then. I would never base my association's budget on the doc's fixed rate. Spend the time to figure out what your costs are, the fixed and the estimated (what do you plan to do for repairs next year, plan it now in your budget). It's not rocket science and yet this is where so many boards get stupid.

Another thing to all you board members, in talking to seniors they can more easily take small rises in the fees each year rather then pay a big assessment in 10.

As a board all your doing in the long run by not setting up reserves now is setting yourselves up for failure. The longer you wait the more the past long term owners there don't want to pay for stuff they used up, although they should. And new owners won't want to move in because they will then get hit with an assessment for repairing the stuff they didn't wear out. No reserves lowers home values. Stress that to your current owners. Besides the point that Fannie and Freddie now require associations to have reserves and be putting so much in per year; although I feel their number to be nothing more than a "feel good" gesture.

Some associations don't fully fund their reserves; which is okay as long as the owners are aware that they are going to get assessed when it's time to replace a big ticket item.

I am new here so hope I am posting in the correct place.

How can I find out if Our State makes it iilegal to use reserve funds for monthly expenses?

Thanks,

I just looked, it says "Add New Topic".

:-)

I plan on bringing up a reserve study/increase in dues for future paving at our meeting next week. I know I will be met with lots of resistance and even anger. I did find in the Florida Statutes that if reserve accounts are not provided for, a statement must go on the budget/end of year report stating: "The budget of the association does not provide for reserve accounts for capital expenditures and deferred maintenance that may result in special assessments. Owners may elect to provide for reserve accounts pursuant to the provisions of Section 720.303(6), Florida Statutes, upon the approval of not less than a majority of the total voting interests of the Association."

I am hoping that when people see that statement on their annual reports, they will realize the folly of not having a reserve account.

I received one quote for $2600 for a reserve study to be done and we have nothing but one and one half miles of roads.

This is a 147 gated community and yes we have road signs and gates but no guards. I am aware we can include all this other stuff as well as looking at the documents. I asked for nothing but a reserve study for the road. I was not complaining about the price, just stating what I was quoted for just the roads. Every association has different requirements, I know. I just need to start somewhere and hopefully convince the membership that putting money aside for future road repairs is in their best interest.

Sooooo. . . . that many people believe in the Road Fairy, who comes along while everyone is sleeping and maintains or repairs their roads with Road Fairy Dust?

Who knew.

assuming each home has 70' of frontage on a 20' wide road and there is a home on each side would be 700 sq ft per home at $6 sq ft = $4,200 for tha asphalt alone.

add in any common areas, manhole resetting, signage, prep work, seal-coating, patrolling the finish to avoid damage while 'setting', and the inevitable hidden costs then $10,000 per home sounds like a 'ballpark' figure

i am a building trdes journeyman with 35+ years of experience

please remember "the devil is in the DETAILS'

You have got to be kidding? !!!

quality wall to wall carpeting is about $4 / sq ft installed

you don't think asphalt would cost a little more?

I don't know what happened here but I did not post the messagge in the small box at the head of your post.

I'm sorry, I'm no mathematician but I am getting confused regarding costs of paving. John says it is approximately $8 p/sq foot yet I believe others are stating $4-8 sq/yard. We just repaved in 2006, 1 mile give or take, for about $98,000. I cannot find bills from the treasurer at the time to quote actual square footage. The paver patched first and then laid a coat of asphalt over the existing roads. Assuming John's figures are accurate, did we pay only $1 sq ft?

5280 ft x width (20 ft) = 105,600 sq ft

Please forgive me if I am really off base here. I need to understand before next week at the meeting and my paver will not get back to me.

Sorry, Tracie, I do not have that information and the Association files regarding such are currently with me as Treasurer and all records pertaining to billing of that paving are missing. I was NOT the treasure at that time nor was I around during the paving.

I just stopped by this thread because the initial question was pertinent to us at the present time. I have just gotten my head spinning with all the answers and questions. I am proposing a reserve study be done for future road repairs at our board meeting next week and just trying to get as much information as possible to back me up at the meeting.

We are a 147 lot subdivision that will never have 147 lots built into homes in the my lifetime. We have approximately 30 homes currently living here with the rest of the lots split between the developer and speculators/investors. Our dues are only $120 per year - yes, that is correct, $120 per year. I feel an increase to $200 per year is justified for future road repairs but know I will meet resistance. The builder is no longer involved here due to the economy.

Glenn, Yes but once again it depends on the condition of the existing road base. Additionally, many town's roads started off as an oil and stone so they continue to use maintenance styles as you described. The last thing being that many condo's want their roads and parking lots "black" and "smooth". So that the seniors can skateboard.

Tracie, I will take a stab at answering Diana. The company patched the existing asphalt instead of ripping it our or grinding it up. They then did an "overlay" wherein the put down a course of asphalt over the top of the existing one. Along the same lines as put a second course of shingles on an existing roof. Hence the cheaper cost. They didn't rip out or regrade the process and then have to pave and roll "two" courses of asphalt.

Michelle, the situation you describe is that your road only has one layer of asphalt on it so far; this is called the "binder" course. Problem with having only this on for a long period of time is that you have the "lip" you described at catch basins and such. Hence the rainwater puddles before it goes into the basin and can actually speed up the breakdown of the asphalt. Towns don't want developers putting down the second or "finish" course of asphalt due to probable damage by the heavy equipment needed to dig the foundations and such for the remaining lots.

In closing, aren't we kind of getting off track as to DianeW's question? :-)

Hey John, are you an engineer? You talk like one, not that that's a bad thing. I'd argue your point that a less traveled road would break down faster than a used one. Like any road, used or not, it must be maintained. State roads and highways don't last anywhere near the length of time a driveway does and yet "they" are built to a higher code.

We rec'd a written quote from a very reputable company and it was $19,420.00 for 2250 sq. yds.

JohnB26: I just was told by the old President that was here when we did the resurfacing that we paid by the ton. Can you help me figure out how to convert tons to sq/ft or sq/yds or is that not even possible? Using his figures, we used about 1500 tons to resurface about one mile.

I restate that there are NO records and the paving company will not look them up for me without a fee of $400. This work was done in 2006.

If there are no records ... the directors in charge were prima face fiscally irresponsible ... have THEM pay for the duplicates out of pocket

Diane,

Don't go wasting your time chasing after the old quote. It's a waste of time and $400.

Let me supply you with a simple formula (but I'm sure we could end up with others that will call it cow patty).

the formula for figuring out asphalt is.. L x W x D x 110 / 9 / 2000 = tons of asphalt.

Where:

L = Length in feet

W = Width in feet

D = Depth in inches

110 = a average weight of a square foot asphalt 1 inch thick

/9 = convert to square yards

/2000 = convert weight to tons

So.. 5280 x 20 x 110 / 9 / 2000 = 645.3333 tons

Now that is for 1" of asphalt before it is rolled. Normally 3" of asphalt compresses to about 1.5" when rolled. Your last board used about 1,500 tons? So that is roughly 2.3" before being rolled. Could be more depth if the length they paved was less than a mile.

Did you measure the width of your road? is it 20' from base of curb to base of curb? If so, then add 1 foot of road width on each side if you were to rip out the curbing and existing asphalt for a repave. (For an overlay go curb to curb.) You must also figure in the total length of curbing and add that cost. And we haven't even touched base on the cost of grinding up your existing road, grading and rolling it before it gets paved. And don't forget about costs of replacing catch basin tops and rebuilding a certain percentage of basins.

Not many contractors want to come running out to measure out your paving quote if you aren't going to pave for 10 years. Yes, not even in this economy. That could be why your guy doesn't want to come out now. I would talk to a couple of contractors and give them the dimensions of the road and have them shoot you a number. This is a start if you don't want to spend the $2,600 for an engineer. BUT......... the dollar number that they give you now will be nothing compared to what you will pay when the economy gets better. Paving companies are slow, at least in New England, and the prices right now compared to 2 years ago have been cut in half.

You have an idea on how to figure out tonnage. The contractors in your area over the phone would give you their cost to lay it down per ton, per square yard, etc. They'll tell you cost for an overlay or the cost for a removal and two courses of asphalt. You can then call any asphalt plant and find out their price per ton on asphalt and you then know what the company is charging (ball park) for labor.

In closing, you used 1,500 tons the last time; in simplest form call a couple asphalt companies and ask how much they'd charge to lay that on a straight road. Period. Then figure the answer they give you is in today's economic value and throw a dart at the board in guessing where inflation and the economy will be by the time you need to repave.

When was it paved last?

D

Thank you Dana. That is the best explanation of how to figure I've seen. I'll take that info to our meeting next week. FYI - roads were resurfaced in 2006 so we have plenty of time to save up funds for the next time.