A service of:
Community123.com
Professional websites for HOAs & condos, since 2004
🎁 1st year FREE for HOATalk members! →
Return to Topics List

Board refuses addition of drain line to outside of unit, even though law requires drain line.

Started by JL69 replies • 1978 views

💬 Join us to post & get advice from 50,000 HOA & Condo leaders.

Create Free Account →

⚡ Takes 30 seconds

Already a member? Log in

JL6 (California)
Posts: 16
Posted:
I live in condominium that has frequent floods from water heaters without floodstops and drain pans. When I initially proposed my remodel, the plans included that the contractor create a drain line, and the board approved the remodel. So I'm about half way through my remodel, and now that the contractors are working on the water heater, they have discovered there isn't a place to drain the water into! There is no nearby drain line to attach the drain to. The only way to add a drain to the drain pan is to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the EXTERIOR of the building and attach it to the adjacent downspout outside. The neighbor below me has requested this method as well, so her unit doesn't get flooded. But the board is refusing the addition of the drain line now because the association had an expensive waterproofing on the exterior of the unit added last year for an exorbitant amount of money, and they are scared of damages. But now that the water heater is being replaced, permits have been pulled, and the unit is legally required to have a drain line.

Other units in my complex either don't have drain lines (they were grandfathered into not needing one), or have different floor plans with their water heaters conveniently located next to an existing drain line.

I am already adding floodstops by choice, but I need to add this drain line by law. What should I do in this case? Should I re-propose with some more paperwork? Do they have the right to deny my request? Should I just have the workers do it, and then they can try and remove it in the future? What are my options?
DavidY3 (California)
Posts: 18
Posted:
Is this an HOA issue or a builder issue for not having the required drain line?
What law are you referring to? The HOA law for needing one or some state law? I'm not sure how someone can be grandfathered in for a state law. The building would need to come up to code. Can you approach the city inspectors about this? Maybe they can help if you were already approved.

If you just went ahead and added the drain, would it be visible to everyone or would people not even notice?
TimB4 (Tennessee)
Posts: 21,062
Posted:
Quote:
Posted By JL6 on 06/12/2015 4:00 PM

There is no nearby drain line to attach the drain to. The only way to add a drain to the drain pan is to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the EXTERIOR of the building and attach it to the adjacent downspout outside.

Now, is that truly the "only" way or is it the easiest and most cost effective?

I've seen water pans that have had a small pump attached (similar to the function of a sump pump) to get the water to a different location. Perhaps that's an option the builder hasn't considered.

David - the law being spoken about would be the applicable building codes.
JL6 (California)
Posts: 16
Posted:
Quote:
Posted By DavidY3 on 06/12/2015 5:01 PM
Is this an HOA issue or a builder issue for not having the required drain line?
What law are you referring to? The HOA law for needing one or some state law? I'm not sure how someone can be grandfathered in for a state law. The building would need to come up to code. Can you approach the city inspectors about this? Maybe they can help if you were already approved.

If you just went ahead and added the drain, would it be visible to everyone or would people not even notice?

The issue is with the builder for not having drain pans installed. The units now are grandfathered in because units only have to come up to code when they install or change the water heating device and pull a permit to pass inspection.
The drain would only be visible to one or two people below me, the same people that are fearing another flood and want me to do it anyways. I will try and see if the city can help. thanks!
JL6 (California)
Posts: 16
Posted:
Quote:
Posted By TimB4 on 06/13/2015 3:54 AM
Posted By JL6 on 06/12/2015 4:00 PM

There is no nearby drain line to attach the drain to. The only way to add a drain to the drain pan is to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the EXTERIOR of the building and attach it to the adjacent downspout outside.


Now, is that truly the "only" way or is it the easiest and most cost effective?

I've seen water pans that have had a small pump attached (similar to the function of a sump pump) to get the water to a different location. Perhaps that's an option the builder hasn't considered.

David - the law being spoken about would be the applicable building codes.

I could spend another $100,000 and a few months rebuilding the entire unit and floor plan, but that's unreasonable. The contractors have all told me they haven't seen any other options, unfortunately.
PitA
Posts: 311
Posted:
fire the 'contractor'

cancel the 'remodel'

restore to original and replace the water heater

you are still 'grandfathered'

however

YOU decided to remodel

YOU are now subject to new code requirements

YOU can not afford to comply

YOU wish to puncture the building's newly renovated 'envelope' to save money

? are YOU lucid ?

or

Install BOTH the water-stop equipment, a watertight pan, AND a small pump to handle any 'drippage'.

Said pump discharge (usually 3/8" tubing) would have to enter your waste system using a fixture 'tailpiece' and an 'adaptor' fitting ~ aim for under the kitchen sink as it would be 'hidden' from sight yet readily accessible as per code requirement.

The tubing itself can be hidden behind crown molding and corner trim for the up and down runs.

Make sure you use either HDPE or PEX for the tube - not the 'big box store' junk
PitA
Posts: 311
Posted:
the 'fly in the ointment' is the REQUIRED Temperature/Pressure Safety relief Valve

which, among other requirements, MUST

discharge to safe place where it will not create any damage

said valve will 'pop wide open' upon sensing 210 degree water and remain FULL OPEN for several minutes until temperature falls below 180 degrees

NO pan will contain said discharge UNLESS the 'flood stop' system works PERFECTLY and QUICKLY to shut off the cold water supply.

You must follow both the Building Code AND your HOA's requirement NOT to penetrate the building envelope.

If the requirements prove costly, so be it - the job (lack of pan and drain) was not compliant originally
PitA
Posts: 311
Posted:
INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTIAL CODE - DISCHARGE PIPE REQUIREMENTS

P2803.6.1 Requirements for discharge pipe.
The discharge piping serving a pressure-relief valve, temperature- relief valve or combination valve shall:
• 1. Not be directly connected to the drainage system.
2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater.
• 3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap.
• 4. Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment.
• 5. Discharge to the floor, to an indirect waste receptor or to the outdoors. Where discharging to the outdoors in areas subject to freezing, discharge piping shall be first piped to an indirect waste receptor through an air gap located in a conditioned area.
6. Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage.
7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants.
• 8. Not be trapped.
• 9. Be installed to flow by gravity.
• 10. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor.
• 11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of the piping.
• 12. Not have valves or tee fittings.
• 13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2904.5 or materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1.
SteveM9 (Massachusetts)
Posts: 3,699
Posted:
I would recommend you relocate your water heater to a drain area or add a drain to goto your water heater to meet todays code requirements.

Other units that are grandfathered do not have to meet these requirements because they met code when installed years ago. "You" must meet TODAYS code, which is stricter because you are replacing it.
JohnC46 (South Carolina)
Posts: 14,265
Posted:
JL

From the tone of your posts, you are never going to be happy with any "limits" the association places on you. You want it your way and now or the highway.

It will only get worse when you stop renting and move in there.

🎯 You've read this entire discussion

Join the conversation with 50,000 HOA & Condo Leaders:

  • ✓ Ask follow-up questions
  • ✓ Share your experience
  • ✓ Get expert advice
  • ✓ Access 350,000 discussions
Create Free Account →

⚡ Takes 30 seconds

Already a member? Log in here